Sewing machine



A. BATES SEWING MACHINE April 2, 1935.

Original Filed July 8, 1927 Patented Apr. 2, 1935 SEWING MACHINE Arthur Bates, Leicester, England, assignor' to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey 1 Original application July 8, 1927, Serial No. 204,278. Divided and this application November.26, 1932, Serial No. 644,444. In Great Britain July 20, 1926 4 Claims. (01. 112-60) This invention relates to sewing machines for use in the manufacture of boots or shoes and is particularly concerned with curved needle machines for stitching together the sole and upper of turn shoes. It has especially in view the improvement of that class of machine which is used v to sew turn slippers withoutprevious lasting and is described in patent to Richards No. 1,163,558, dated December '7, 1915, and in patent to Bates No. 1,188,388 and to Bates and Richards No. 1,188,389, dated June 2'7, 1916.

- The present invention has for its objects to provide a machine of this class of simple and light construction as a whole and to provide improved forms of sewing and work feeding devices of machines of this class to adapt the same for running at comparatively high speed and render the same well capable of operating upon material of inferior quality without damaging the material (for instance by pulling the stitches through the material as is liable to occur with the heavy machines today in use) while also capable of sewing material of good quality in as satisfactory a manner as with machines heretofore in use.

Such slipper turn shoes as referred to above may require to have sewn to the upper by the sewn seam either a felt or rubber sole, or a combination sole of felt or rubber and leather, or a sole com posed only of leather.

Other objects and the various novel features of the invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art from the following description given by way of example of one form of machine according to the invention and embodying its various features inparticular forms thereof. The said form of machinehas sewing instrumentalities of the nature and functioning in the same general way to sew a chain stitch seam in work on a horn as the machines in customary use for slipper turn shoe sewing and the original forms of which machine is described in the earliest dated of the aforementioned patents. 1 i

' In the accompanying drawing, Fig. 1 is a view .in side elevation of the machine and Fig. 2 is a detail view illustrating the relative arrangement of the work supporting horn, the needle, the preser, the back rest and the feed point.

e The novel machine comprises a base I, adapted to be fixed to a work bench orpedestal, which base has clamped in it so as to be adjustable vertically a vertical stem formed on a frame, to-the upper face of which is bolted a machine head 2.

' The head has on it spaced uprights respectively carrying two bearings in which is rotatably mou d a. ho ont l i n or c n; shaft 3 vision and upon which Patent tending across the machine. The driving shaft has rotatably mounted on it at its right hand end a driving pulley 4 which isadapted to be clutchedto the shaft by a clutch of the type illustrated and described in the patent toJerram No. 1,124,620, dated January 12, 1915. On the opposite end of the shaft is a hand wheel bywhich the driving shaft may be rotated. Theclutch is enclosed in a substantially cylindrical casing ex tending from theright-hand upright of the head and a rod 6 passes fromthe clutch toa'treadle for controlling the clutch." Between-the clutch and hand-wheel the head encloses anumberof cams and eccentrics which operatethefsewing andfeeding devices of the 'machine.

The frame carries a rotatable horn 1 on which the work is supported during :the sewing and the horn is substantially of the shape and disposition of, and is controlled ina similar manner to that shown in Patent No. 1,188,388, above re--' ferred to. A curved hook needle 8 is fixed in an arm 9 which projects from a horizontal stud or spindle extending across the frame androtatably mounted at the front of the head. The

arm has pivotally connected to it one end ofia rearwardly extending curved link I 0, the other end of which is pivotally connected to the front end of a needleactuating arm H which extends back under the cam shaft to a point behind and below the latter where it is pivoted on a shaft l2, extending across the machine, rotatably mounted at the rear of the head. The needleactuating arm has pivotally connected to it betweenits pivot and its connection to the link usual. For a complete description 'of'the machine, reference may be had to the inventors pending application Serial No. 204,278, filed July 8, 1927 of which the present application is a di N0. 1,911,050issued May23, 19331 V A tubular looper l6 having an offset thread finger 23!] operating in the usual way is fixed, inside of the head, on the end of a hori-- zontal shaft extending across the machine and rotatably mounted ina bearing on the head.

When operating upon shoes having a combination leather and felt sole, the shoeis-fed over delivery end is mounted to rotate about its axis in an arm ll secured within theframe. A thread the horn tip through the machine by a feed point which digs into the upper and the felt of the sole inside the line of the seam. The feed point indicated at 23 is fixed in the lower end of a vertical bar 24 slidingly mounted in a vertical bearing which is formed on theforward end ofa horizontal,"rearwardly extending feed lever 25 pivoted about mid-way of its length on a vertical pivot 26 fixed in the head under the cam shaft. The feed point is actuated in proper timed relation to the movements of the other stitch forming devices from the cams on the cam shaft 3, as more fully described in the inventors pending application above referred to.

In the embodiment of the present invention a presser or bender 35 is pivoted on an eccentric portion of a horizontal stud 30 fixed in the head to extend from right to left so that by rotating the stud the heightwise and forward or rearward position of the presser may'beadiusted. The presser is forked so asto engage the work at each side-of the needle and-bends down the edge of the shoe so as to position and hold it on. the horn tipwhile the needle enters the work and the presser holds the work while the needle is retracted.

The presser has a. depending arm to which is pivotally connected the forward end of a rearwardly extending rod-31 passing under thecam shaft, the; rear end of which slides through a pin 38 rotatably mounted in a downwardly extending arm of the lever H. The rod has on its rearend a nut between which and the rear side of the'pin 3B is a spring 39 surrounding the rod whichyields-after the presser engages the work. The other stitch forming and thread handling devices including a take-up lever 40 and an auxiliary take-up 4| are the same as described in the application referred to.

When operating upon combination felt and leather soles, a back gage 5| is provided. A portion ofthe'work engaging face of the back gagetake-up lever, none of the thread and work handling parts of the machine or the link, lever or like mechanism connecting the same with the cams or the like on the cam shaft lie above a plane containing the cam shaft axis and extendingupwardly and rearwardly at some 20 only to the horizontal. Again, none of such parts except the looper itself and the roll of the main take-up extend substantially forward of a vertical plane parallel to the cam, shaft and 'passing'through' the horn tip. I

The following particulars of the relative timing of the parts will further indicate the nature of the movements: v

' The machine has a definite stopping point which will be considered as the zero position. The needle is then fully retracted and stays so until the cam shaft has turned 65 'when'it' advances retracted position 25 before the cam shaft rotation is completed in which position it then stays. The looper occupies 45 of cam shaft rotation and 290 of its own rotation in laying the thread fully round the needle from the time it first brings the thread in contact with the side of the needle which occurs after the needle has remained fully advancedfor 20 of cam shaft rotation and after the looper has itself moved some 160 from its starting position. The thread finger is forward until the cam shaft has rotated 135 when it retires during to stay back during 90 and then advances during 45 to stay forward for the remainder of the cycle. The feed movement occupies 55 of cam shaft rotation of which the first five degrees actually occur during the last five degrees of cam shaft rotation to the zero position above adopted. The feed member stays in its left hand extreme and in its depressed positions'until the cam shaft has turned 185 from the zero position when the needle is fully advanced. Then during-5 of cam shaft rotation the feed member lifts and thereafter returns durin of cam shaft rotation to its starting position where it dwells, lifted, during 70 of cam shaft rotation to then fall during 10 and thereafter dwell in that position for The main takeup occupies 180 in rising and 180 in falling reaching its fully lifted position (i. e. the end of itspulling movement) at about 180 from said zero. -The presser is in raised position at the beginning of the cycle for when during 20 it falls to engage the work before the needle enters it and then stays down during 165 of cam shaft rotation when after the cam shaft has rotated 235 from zero position it commences to lift to reach its fully raised position just at the end of the cycle.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed is: 1

1. A sewingmachine having,,in combination, a horn arranged to extend within and support the shoe, stitch forming devices including a curved needle arranged to pass through the work in a path substantially parallel to the work engaging'surface of the horn, a presser arranged to press the upper against the shoe sole and hold the work on the horn during the passage of the needle, and a back gage arranged to bear on the shoe adjacent the presser and shaped to bend the upper into a position to be engaged by the presser.

2. A sewing machine having, in combination, a horn arranged to extend within and support a shoe, stitch-forming devices including a curved hook needle arranged to pass through the work in a path substantially parallel to the work engaging surface of the horn, a work engaging member acting on the work inside the line of the seam to feed the work; and a presser engaging the work along the edge of the sole to hold it on the horn during passage of the needle.

3. A sewing machine having, in combination,

.a horn arranged to extend within and support a shoe, stitch-forming devices including a curved hook needle arranged to pass through the work in a path substantially parallel to the work engaging surface of the horn, a work engaging member acting on the work inside the line of the seam to feed the work, a presser engaging the work along the edge of the sole to hold it on thehorn, means for actuating the needle, and a connection from the needle actuating means to the presser for causing the presser to bend the upper and edge of the sole over the horn tip while the needle enters the work.

4. A sewing machine having, in combination, a horn arranged to extend within and support a shoe, stitch-forming devices including a curved hook needle arranged to pass through the work 5 in a path substantially parallel to the work engaging surface of the horn, a work engaging memher acting on the work inside the line of the seam to feed the work, and a presser engaging the work along the edge of the sole to bend down the edge and position it on the horn tip for the passage of the needle.

ARTHUR BATES. 

